Post on 08-Apr-2018
8/7/2019 24 Hours: Barcelona
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GEORGE ORWELL OBSERVED
in his 1938 memoir of the
Spanish Civil War, Homage to
Catalonia, Barcelona is constantly evolving.
Architects and urbanists still admire Cerdà’s
forward-thinking urban design and the
Modernista architecture of Antoni Gaudí,
style-setters who reached their apogee at the
turn of the 20th century. And three decades
after the 1975 death of dictator General
FranciscoFranco, a new generation of artists,
filmmakers, fashion designers, architects
and chefs is making waves in the birthplace
of the surrealist movement – most notably
Europe’s hottest culinary genius Ferran Adrià(“the Salvador Dalí of the kitchen”).
While many mistake Barcelona for the
epitome of all things Spanish, the Catalan
capital is, in fact, influenced far more by the
Mediterranean than Madrid. Unlike their
extroverted Castilian cousins, most Catalans
prefer a good book to a bullfight. Yet sedate
it is not. Barcelona’s boutiques and bars
are constantly breaking the style barrier.
And since hosting the 1992 Olympics, the
design-centric city has become even more
cosmopolitan, its seedier barrios transformed
into swank districts with hip galleries,boutique hotels and eateries straight out of
Wallpaper magazine.
One part bourgeois and one part bohème,
Barcelona has always been the Spanish city
most open to outside influences, thanks to
its seafaring history and proximity to France.
Given this geography, and the character-
istically Catalan balance between seny
(common sense) and rauxa (creative chaos),
it comes as no surprise that the city has
witnessed several belle époques throughout its
history. Today, creative chaos still finds its
way into all aspects of local life, but particu-larly the kitchen, where the Catalans take
their gastronomy very seriously. A typical
barcelonés breakfast might consist of a mid-
morning cortado (espresso with a dash of
milk) and chocolate croissant, followed by
a leisurely sit-down lunch between 2 and
3 p.m. Tapas are customary after 5, but don’t
even think about dinner before 9 p.m.
(Barcelona offers some of Europe’s best
nightlife). Suddenly, the siesta seems
perfectly civilized.
– Jennifer Patterson
10 W E S T W O R L D • W I N T E R 2 0 0 6 Jennifer Patterson
24hours:Barcelona
The Go Spots■ La Boqueria market Famous for its stalls stacked
perilously with fresh produce and seafood and
delicatessens dangling cured jamón serrano . Don’t miss
a three-o’clock lunch (you’re on Spanish time) and cup
of cava at Pinotxo Bar, where Juanito (pictured) serves
up Catalan cuisine – tender calamari, anchovy filets or
delicate cheese croquetas – made from the market’s
freshest ingredients. 93 317 1731
■ The hip El Born, El Raval andBarri Gòtic districts for
funky Barcelona furnishings and one-of-a-kind local
designer fashions.
■ A special “Picasso and the Circus” exhibitcommemorating the 125th anniversary of the artist’s
birth runs to February 18, 2007, at Museu Picasso.
93 319 6310; www.museupicasso.bcn.es
■ Pedal past La Sagrada Família, Casa Batlló andLa
Pedrera along the grand boulevards of Passeig de Gràcia
or Carrer de la Marina, courtesy B&B Bike Rentals.
93 295 5546; www.bnb-bikes.com
■ For panoramic views of the city: the cable car strung
from La Barceloneta to Montjuïc (“Jewish Mountain”)
stops near Fundació Joan Miró, the finest collection of
works by the legendary Catalan artist.
Trendy Vittles■ Euskal Etxea Classic Basque pintxos (tapas) – best
appreciated with a glass of txakolí (the Basque version
of vinho verde). 93 310 2185
■ commerç24Patrons reserve at least a day in advance
for new-wave chef (and Ferran Adrià alumnus) Carles
Abellan’s resto (93 319 2102) . Time-saver: Abellan’s
new tapaç24. 93 488 0977
■ SalamancaA favoured local restaurant in the former
fishermen’s neighbourhood of La Barceloneta. Prime
pick: seafood paella for two. 93 221 5033
Best Crash Zones■
Hostal Palacios Elegant, aristocratic suites withfloor-to-ceiling vistas of one of the city’s swankiest
boulevards. From $115. 93 301 3079;
www.hostalpalacios.com
■Nisia Bed & Breakfast The next best thing to living
in Barcelona. Close to Gràcia’s great restos, indie cine-
mas and Gaudí’s surreal Parque Güell. From $78.
93 415 3960; www.nisiabcn.com
insider’s guide ▼
▼
Insider Travel I
10-night Mediterranean cruise: from $1,739, with a stop in
Barcelona. bcaa.com/barcelona or your nearest
BCAA sales centre (see page 74).
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